This city and it's inhabitants the "Portenos" (people of the port) get kind of a bad rap in South America. We were warned before living Chile that Buenos Aires is dangerous and full of snobby, rude, people who would most likely insult you and then try to abscond with your wallet. But being the brave sort of folks we are, we decided to take on this challenge and see if we could handle this city full of pompous, stylish people and pick pockets.
And so we were off to see this land of Evita and Diego Maradona and get some beautiful steak. After surviving a bus journey that included: five dubbed romantic comedies, three screaming babies, and one vomiting incident on the bus, had arrived to B.A. a mere twenty hours later.
This city has been compared with Paris for it's architecture and the cafe culture. It is somewhat of a South American version of Paris, I would have to agree. But there is also so much spirit and youth in this city, it is a definite clash of both old and new world. The history here is very young and new. The city looks old world in architecture, but it feels very South American in it's energy and vibrancy. It also has some definite New York City vibes. It is a city with a history of immigration and it is quite a mix of the South American and European styles. This is a beautiful and alluring city and also a gritty, dirty city. Which is kind of how a city should be. You can really feel the passion in this city and a little bit of sadness. This is not a sterile overly modern city, but one that has had a strong and difficult history.
You are constantly reminded of The "Dirty War" while walking through the avenues of Buenos Aires. This state sanctioned violence that was carried out in the city from 1976-1983 has left quite a scar on the Argentine history and in the hearts and minds of the Argentinians. 30,000 people went "missing" during this Dirty War. There is graffiti and placers all over the city reminding you of the fact that citizens were taken away from their families and their deaths have never been acknowledged. It is spooky to think that there were torture centers or "re-education centers" all over the city in shopping malls and office buildings. For that reason and city feels a little eerie and there is a palatable sadness.
On the other side of the coin, Buenos Aires is a magnetic city full of glamour and glitz and culture. These famous Portenos know how to live. They know how to enjoy life and savor the things that make life rich, like food, and wine, and most importantly dance. And not just any dance but: The Tango. The seductive and iconic dance of the city.
Rooz and I took one lesson at the hostel we were staying at, and learned that it's not as easy as it appears. The Tango is a dance about life, and therefore the main movements in the Tango are simply walking and mirroring your partner. Sounds simple, but the dance of life is no easier than life itself. Also walking is sometimes a problem for me, so I am not the best candidate. After our lesson we went to a Milonga, a dance hall were real Portenos come and drink wine and dance Tango. This is were you see the real people listening to music and dancing and taking in every morsel of life. The dancers were of all ages and sizes and were amazing. I was so impressed by everyone I saw dancing, not because they were all technically perfect, but because they were all so passionate. These were just normal people but when that music started they all became movie stars. They were all so hypnotizing and sultry and full of emotion. It was sublime to watch. For them, it was just a regular Monday night, dancing Tango until the wee hours of the morning. But for me it was amazing to see normal people making daily life, artsy and inspiring. They give their everyday life that sense of drama and flare that I only thought possible on the big screen. It is captivating and compelling to watch.
What I really learned in Buenos Aires is that Portenos are alluring because they are not afraid to feel, and to be artistic, and passionate about life. I have this misconception that only movie stars or famous people can be glitzy or glamorous. But in Buenos Aires, you are inspired by everyday people and you truly see art in everyday life.
For that reason I understand why Portenos have this air about them and a high opinion of themselves. They are inspiring people who live in a charming and bewitching city. They also have some damn good steak. Believe the hype: Buenos Aires is all that and a bag o' chips.
