Burning Bodies

If you are a Hindu lucky enough to die in Varanasi, and be cremated by the holy Ganges, it is believed that you will go straight to Nirvana. Ideally, your soul will be released from the reincarnation cycle and be sent to Nirvana where life is eternal bliss. This is the ultimate goal of Hinduism, reaching Nirvana. Varanasi, the sight of the holiest stretch of the Ganges, is an orchestra of sights and sounds, mostly having to do with Hinduism and death. Many of the buildings near the ghats (steps leading to the river) in this ancient city are used as hospices to house those who are waiting to die and be cremated in a holy ceremony. Although this city is haunted by death and the dying it is not morbid or depressing, just plain bizarre. Walking through the corroding alley ways you will most certainly bump into your fair share of sacred cows, motor bikes, vendors, and families carrying the covered body of a deceased loved one down to the "burning ghat." The burning ghats are funeral pyres stationed near the water and the most surreal aspect of Varanasi. At the burning ghats bodies are placed on pyres made of wood and burned for 3 hours before their remains are then placed in the Ganges. Watching the burning ghats made me feel as if I had stepped back in time to the Medieval Ages. Even though this ceremony is a huge honor for any Hindu to receive, in my opinion cremating people outside in the open for spectators to view is a bit gnarly. But what do I know about achieving Nirvana, so I merely watch this spectacle and keep my western opinions to myself.
The burnings take place from the early morning well into the night and can cost the family up to 3,000 euro depending on the quality of the wood. Sandal wood is the most expensive and sought after wood used for the cremation. Sandalwood does the best job of fulling cremating the body and hiding the smell of burning flesh. Currently Hindu women do not attend these burning ceremonies, because in the past the widow of the man being cremated was pressured by her husband's family to throw herself on his funeral pyre. Needless to say standing by these burning ghats makes any woman Hindu or not feel a tad bit nervous about being surrounded by a male population who might want to push you into the flames, so I was on full alert.

Beyond the crazy burning ghats is the other focal point of this city, the Ganges river, which is the heart and soul of this eccentric city. The river is severely polluted and full of the remains of dead people but that does not stop people from washing and swimming in the water. I saw people straight up drinking from the river. I opted for an early morning boat ride as a way to take in the river, as apposed to a dip in this bacteria ridden body of water. It was beautiful as long as you did not study the river, but instead the picturesque scene on the shore.

It goes without saying that Varanasi is a mind blowing place that takes you out of your comfort zone and throws you right into the fire (pun intended). It is a circus of life and death and everything in between. You will never be able to look at a barbecue pit the same way again.